Tuesday 29 March

Another windy night with rain showers but not as bad as Sunday. Bright and sunny when we got up so a fairly steady start as not too much rush today.

First off was a visit to the vet. For those who don't know, for return into the UK dogs (and cats and ferrets!) have to be administered a worming treatment between 24 and 120 hrs before returning by a vet. This has of course opened up a money-for-old-rope trade amongst Northern French vets; the further from the port, the cheaper the fee so it's a bit of a balancing act and of course getting an appointment. We chose a practice in Rue, only a couple of hours away from Calais but very convenient for the aire at Le Crotoy, where we stayed overnight, who we were told operated a walk-in service after 2.00 p.m. We of course arrived at 11.30, ready to make an appointment but they were happy to do it there and then. €34.50 for a tablet and 10 mins – gotta be a good thing for them!

That gave us the option of getting an earlier Tunnel crossing, but the problem with that is that they get more expensive the closer you get to your booked time. The Eurotunnel operator was very helpful but the best we could get was tomorrow afternoon for £34 extra. Ah well it's only money.

So we motored steadily up the D940 along the coast, noticing how quiet everywhere was – even Lidl and Aldi were deserted when we called in for a baguette for lunch. Refuelled at Boulogne to save us some time later and stopped for lunch at Cap Gris Blanc overlooking a very rough sea. In the distance we could see three ferries off Calais which didn't appear to be going anywhere and later learned that the bad weather had caused many cancellations. Glad we use the tunnel!

After lunch we continued up to Wissant, our now regular pre/post crossing stopover. Short of the town a sign indicated that the crossroads in the centre of Wissant was closed and offered a diversion, which we eventually took (long story). Halfway round the signs disappeared so we turned off the satnav (which eventually gave up anyway when we took no notice) and Bren navigated us round the back roads to avoid the problem. Which turned out to actually be at the entrance to the aire which was being repaired! Fortunately we were told to wait 5 mins while they finished one section and we could get in, joining a number of vans who had been trapped there since midday.

So our last night in France is upon us; no rush in the morning and once we've crossed over we'll go up to the Canterbury aire and have a meal in the rather nice pub before the long slog home on Thursday.

Monday 28 March

The storm died down during the night but it remained gusty when we got up, a little later than planned due to lack of sleep the last two nights. Venturing outside we recovered the door step from across the car-park and discovered a smashed roof tile on the ground between us and the van next door. Was that the clang? If so we were lucky it didn't land on the van roof; nevertheless we'll try to get up and have a look at an early opportunity.

But eventually we got going, utilising the service point – it's amazing how even tiny villages make provision even when they are unlikely to benefit very much – then went looking for fuel at a Carrefour near Caen. Our route is more or less a straight line to our destination using “N” and “D” roads, basically the same as last year. It being Easter Monday there was no commercial traffic so it was a fast and pleasant drive, just having to put up with the occasional rain or hail shower.

A late lunch in a picnic area and then an hour to Le Crotoy, a small fishing town on the Baie de la Somme that has become a bit of a holiday home village. A large area has been put aside across the harbour for motorhome parking and it is quite popular although on this visit it is only half full; probably all the Easter weekenders have now gone home and the weather doesn't help.

Le Pet't Train de la Somme

Once parked up, the skies cleared although stormy looking clouds could be seen on the horizon. We did notice that there were no satellite dishes up, must have been quite bad earlier! There were a few Brits here but no-one we knew, although as I write in early evening, there is a slow steady stream of vans coming in.

Sunday 27 March

Because of our late night, and of course the clocks going forward overnight, our start was a little, well, tardy and breakfast became brunch. Not to worry because we're going nowhere anyway today. The weather is a bit mixed and the forecast is somewhat stormy so a day “at home” is the answer. Usual dog waking of course plus the boulangerie was open for baguette and we treated ourselves to a cake with our afternoon tea.

Yummy Easter treat!

 Bit of internet, bit of reading and the day passed quietly, until after tea when the wind started getting up and by bedtime it was howling with the van, despite being parked in what we thought was good shelter, being rocked about and rain lashing down. Bren got quite upset but we were not in any danger, although getting to sleep became a bit difficult. Just after going to bed we heard a loud “clang” that sounded like the satellite dish being banged but we had no intention of going outside to investigate when all seemed okay from the inside.

Saturday 26 March

A peaceful night in a lovely setting and we'd have stayed longer but the weather forecast is not good and we think €10.50 a night is a bit of a rip-off. So after breakfast used the service point and headed out. We're continuing our journey north making Caen our aiming point, there being a good choice of aires, our only worry being that as it is Easter weekend all the locals would be out as well as “foreigners” starting their spring breaks.

Taking a more or less straight run, only the road numbers changing, it was a pleasant drive on the relatively quiet “N” (Nationale) and “D” (Departement) roads despite being plagued all day by rain showers. It occurred to us that this would make a pleasant, if slower, alternative route down to Spain rather than batting down the main roads. As always when lunchtime came around, despite there having been plenty of opportunities before, there was nowhere suitable to stop. However persistence paid off and eventually we found a picnic spot which was fine and had plenty of room for Jamie to run round.

The afternoon was much of the same although we now had to decide where to stop, bearing in mind our earlier thoughts. Caen was not particularly suitable so we programmed in the aire at Bayeux, not having tried it before and knowing our friends Malcolm & Cathryn had stopped there earlier – or maybe were still there? But they weren't, and neither was the aire – we found the service point but the car-park highlighted by the Aires book was no longer available to motorhomes. And we weren't the only ones looking!

With Terry's knowledge of the area, although with a little trepidation because the weather was looking a bit ominous for a seaside stop, we headed to the coast at Courselles. Unfortunately there was some kind of event on and the small aire was full; well there was a space but another van was overhanging it, making it unusable for us. Then checking the book, we remembered a tiny aire behind a shopping precinct in the village of Hermanville-sur-Mer which we had used before and the book said usually had space. Nothing ventured, nothing gained and with several alternatives still in mind TomTom was instructed and took us straight there – well he would have done if Terry had listened properly to the instructions........ (We've currently got John Cleese doing the vocals). Joy of joys, there were still four spaces left although due to the markings only two were usable and, despite being warned that there was a festival in the adjacent community centre tonight and it might be difficult to sleep, we settled in. Shortly after another van pulled in beside us and that ws that, although we're sure nobody would have objected to over-spilling into the car bays.

Teatime came and went but it was 9.00 p.m. before there were any signs of life, then as they were setting up a BBQ the heavens opened. Didn't seem to deter them though and rather than a festival it looked more like a community party, which didn't really get going until 10.30. Having planned to stay here 2 nights (we like free!) we weren't too bothered about the noise and didn't retire until well past 1.00 p.m. Got good books! We think it went on until about 3.00 a.m. but we were not disturbed, well no more than Terry's usual nightly perambulations anyway.

Friday 25 March

As expected, it rained during the night and it was still raining, though not particularly heavy however it was a lot warmer. After breakfast we decided on a quick drive round the island, just to see the sights. As expected a very seasidey place that was just about getting ready to open for the season, probably this weekend at Easter.

Crossing back over the bridge we decided that, as the weather was set to be miserable here for a few days, we may as well push on north so a quick re-programme of the netbook and we set out. Although it's Good Friday the roads were remarkably busy with commercial traffic and all the shops and many businesses were open. Not having been able to service the van we called at another service point – they're everywhere and well marked. Eventually the rain petered out and we started to glimpse the sun as we paused in an Aldi carpark for fresh baguette straight from the oven for lunch.

We hadn't decided on a destination for tonight, planning simply to stop when we were ready. As the day wore on it became apparent that Angers was a likely candidate until we missed a turn – but as often is the case this caused us to take a minor road which was in fact a “Tourist” route along the River Loire towards Anger. The book showed numerous aires but one stood out, and which we'd used before, at Bouchemaine which was just the other side of Angers, so TomTom was instructed.

Like many aires in France, once free places have started to charge and others have increased their charges, often substantially. Admittedly facilities have improved and often electricity is now included but when you don't need it having to pay extra grates a little. Nevertheless this is a lovely spot, right on the banks of the Loire and a short walk along the river to a nice village. And the sun was shining so chairs out and enjoy the rest of the afternoon with a cuppa.

So endeth the day

Thursday 24 March

After a very cold night the sun once again quickly warmed things up, although it's a little hazy and rain is forecast for later tonight. So for the first time since mid-January, socks and jeans were the order of the day for Terry! As we're planning to go into the town, after breakfast got everything packed away ready to depart then caught the free bus from the park and ride, leaving Jamie to guard the van. 

Five minutes later we were dropped close to the centre of this quite compact town. La Rochelle is a typical old port, lots of narrow streets and old buildings including an unusual town hall which unfortunately suffered a serious fire in 2013 and is now being extensively repaired and renovated. An exhibition showed the progress but that's about all we could see. Anyway, a selection of photos.

Town Hall - about all we could see of it

An interesting corner tower

Justice Building

Le Grande Horlage (The Big Clock)

Claimed to be the first lighthouse in the world

We bought a sandwich lunch and sat overlooking the old harbour, watching the tide come in before returning to the van on the free bus. A quick drink, a visit to the service point and we were away. It seems your stay is limited to 24 hours here, but that is enough to “see the sights” and we thought well worth it.

Le Vieux Porte

Quite close by and just off the coast is the Ile de Re, a long thin popular holiday island that is reached by a long toll bridge. Almost straight away we came across a small aire which had a few places left (although the price has doubled according to our book!) and overlooked a big sandy beach, which was soon explored by a very energetic dog! Whilst setting up we had a short chat with a Brit couple who were 8 days into their first motorhome trip – which they intended to last 5/6 months! Had a few questions, which we were of course happy to help with, but put them on to the MotorhomeFun forum.

As predicted the weather started to close in although the rain held off for the rest of the day. But we've parked under a tree so no radio or TV tonight.

Wednesday 23 March

Another fine sunny day and we managed to get away reasonably early for our 2 hour run up to La Rochelle. The route today took us along the “D” roads through some pretty Charente villages – and this time there were actually people about! Up to now French villages we've passed through have appeared to be deserted but today was a nice change. We also encountered several examples of “roundabout art”.

Charente is famous for its snails

Got some nice beaches too

Moules Marinere anyone?

It's an aeroplane

The larder was beginning to look a bit empty so a priority was a serious shop and Gary, the owner of Twin Lakes, told us about a new large Carrefour on the outskirts of La Rochelle. Pity he didn't mention it was poorly signposted too as we were past it before we found the turnoff so a little bit of backtracking was required. Never mind, got there in the end and after walking Jamie got stuck in to an hours trolley filling. Then time for a late lunch and then topping off the gas and fuel tanks as it was convenient.

The books indicated there were a couple of aires convenient for the town so we programmed the first into TomTom, said to be a 10 min walk from the centre and free! Which was probably why it was full! The second was attached to a Park and Ride in the Old Port so another reprogramming took us through several narrow back streets and we found a pleasant open space with plenty of room. Okay it's costing €10 per night but that includes all facilities and free buses into and out of the town.

It now being quite late we decided to leave visiting until the morning and spend a quiet evening here, disturbed every now and again by a voluble announcer in the nearby rail station with an annoying ringbingbong. Can't see why she has to make so many announcements, there's only one train an hour!

Tuesday 22 March

We decided to stay an extra day here at this lovely little campsite, mainly because the sun is set to shine for a couple more days. So after the basic chores out with the chairs and some serious sunbathing until lunchtime.

After lunch Terry got planning for the rest of the trip; as Easter is in the way now, which affects our requirement to visit a vet, we're not in any rush. So bringing Nelly the netbook back into play – the only machine we've got Autoroute on – a roundabout coastish route was sorted, taking into account convenient vets (we've got a list) and visiting places we've not yet been. First stop will be La Rochelle and possibly a side trip onto Ile de Re which is supposed to be a pretty little island off that town.

Monday 21 March

Cold overnight but once the sun was up the temperature rapidly followed it, although it never got overly hot. But without a cloud in the sky sitting in our enclosed sun-trap of a pitch we were able to work further on our tans whilst Jamie rooted round in the hedges. It was also very pleasant to walk around the lakes despite there being one or two muddy patches.

Later, by using the site WiFi, we were able to re-instate our own. Then Terry took advantage of the nice hot showers. (As I'm writing this Jamie is on the seat beside me, dreaming of chasing rabbits, yelping and running in his sleep. Ahhh!)

The weather forecast is set to stay fine for a couple of days so we've decided to stay three nights before heading further north – we've got to arrange to take Jamie to a vet so we can get his Passport stamped.

Sunday 20 March

Sunday so it's bacon and eggs and this time we've got the real thing – found some in Pingo Doce, yummy!

Although still wet, the rain appeared to have stopped so after breakfast got the van serviced and on our way. We're going to try to get to Twin Lakes which the satnav shows is a long drive, but it's Sunday and we plan to use all motorways, especially round the Spanish/French border around Bayonne where we've always experienced congestion and delays. So as the sun shows signs of appearing, up onto the motorway, set cruise control and away.

By following road signs we managed to stay off the Spanish toll road as far as San Sebastion, stopping for fuel about 20km short as it's cheaper in Spain. Then once into France onto the new A63 toll road which once was a non-toll N10 and there's no easy alternative short of using the smaller “D” roads. Lunch at one of the new service areas; we noticed that almost all of the new “aires de repos” now have motorhome waste stations.

South of Bordeaux we ran into a huge rainstorm, which we'd been able to see for miles, including hail and lightning, but it didn't actually slow us down. Clear by Bordeaux itself we took the “rocade” (ring road) in heavy, but nevertheless quickly moving, traffic then onto the Paris road and our old friend the N10. Half an hour later we turned off towards the campsite, realising it was the same junction for Montguyon, where we'd stopped on the way down over 2 months ago.

As usual, the satnav took us right to the gates of this, smallish but attractive in a rustic sense, English owned campsite where we were welcomed and told to park wherever we liked, it was almost empty. We could have parked in an open area with views of the lakes but chose instead an “emplacement”, a bordered pitch with it's own services, and settled in to a cuppa whilst enjoying the last rays of sunshine.

But unfortunately, when we lost internet last night we also missed a return message from Tim and Alison that they were leaving this morning to catch their booked Chunnel crossing. Ah well, c'est la vie! But anyway we'll probably stay a couple of nights to relax; 303 miles today, the highest daily mileage we've done this trip.

Saturday 19 March

Rain most of the night and still showery when we surfaced at our now regular 8.30. Breakfast then serviced the van – cheapskate aire owners, €2 extra to fill with water – then off to find some fuel. We couldn't remember if Portugal or Spain was the cheaper but as it was getting very low we just went into the first (Portuguese) fuel station we found. Then across the border through the old control point and past a few filling stations – all 10c cheaper of course! It makes a difference when you load 75 litres you know!

There's snow on them there mountains!

Our route today was autovia all the way, so setting the cruise control for a reasonable pace without being too heavy on fuel consumption, we joined quite light traffic for a steady run, destination Burgos. Obviously the motorway skirts towns and cities but nevertheless was not as boring as some UK roads and all we had to contend with was intermittent rain showers. Lunch was taken in a lay-by just after Salamanca, then we continued past Valadolid (try saying that quickly a few times, pausing then trying again...) and into the modern city of Burgos.

Where the circus was in town. Their trucks having taken up a large part of the adjacent car-park, the cars moved into the motorhome spaces on the aire so that there was no room for us. Grrrrrrr! However we had considered that a city aire on a Saturday, especially late afternoon, was a bit of a risk so we'd planned a couple more places a little further along the way. Selecting the largest of them, which happened to be the next anyway, TomTom again took us without fuss to Briviesca and round the back of the bull ring to a very nice aire with views over the city and the countryside beyond. Well they would have been nice if it hadn't been raining.

A couple of other Brits arrived more or less at the same time and we had a short chat with them before once again the weather took charge. We later learned that our friends Tim & Ali are at Twin Lakes, just north of Bordeaux, so we'll see if we can get that far tomorrow – should be okay on a Sunday providing we get a reasonable start.

Friday 18 March

Today is Jamie's birthday! One year old!

As forecast it started to rain during the night and we woke to a steady drizzle which had turned the surface of the aire to ¼ inch of liquid mud. Now YOU try to keep a 12 month old puppy out of it!

Checking the forecast again it was somewhat worse than yesterday and it looks like the entire Iberian Peninsular is in for a wet few days. Obviously we're not going to traipse around Obidos in the rain, neither have we got the inclination – or the time – to wait it out. So the decision was made to abandon the rest of our tour of Portugal and Spain and head for France, the west coast of which promised to be somewhat better.So after packing a soaking wet insulating screen into the shower cubicle, we serviced the van and set out, chuckling at the tourists disgorged from the dozen or so coaches which had arrived for a day trip.

Obidos is not the ideal place to start a return to France from; there are only toll motorways and no direct main roads so doing what we did yesterday we programmed in a destination we thought we could make and let TomTom do it's thing. Well all we can say is that we had an interesting morning seeing lots of little villages, sometimes from very close quarters, and did a lot of steering wheel twirling and changing gears up and down. At times we felt we were going in circles, then we'd be on a bigger road apparently going in the wrong direction, but we kept the faith!

However by lunchtime we felt we were getting nowhere fast so, against all our principals, we said s## it and took off the non-toll restriction. We were almost immediately on a beautifully empty motorway which, although boring and costing some €23, at least got us to our planned destination on the Spanish border at Vilar Formoso and a commercial aire (i.e. privately rather than local authority run) with all facilities. It was being run as a sideline to a bazaar-type emporium which seemed to sell all sorts of odd things, from paper-ware to electrical goods through plastic flowers and many other types of goods.

We joined a couple of vans already parked up and a Funster (Dogsense, Benny & Ruth – we don't know them) pulled in next to us shortly after. However it was still raining, it had hardly stopped all day, so a quick wave was as far as we got with them. Then settle into our usual routine for the evening. We'll only stay one night then push on through Spain tomorrow.

Thursday 17 March

The only noise during the night was the crashing of the breakers on the beach, just over the sand dunes. Waking to yet another warm sunny morning (yeh, we know, it gets a bit monotonous.....) we were in no particular rush so after clearing up we took Jamie onto the beach again for a half hour run around and occasional plodge in the lagoon.

Then, as there were no servicing facilities here, we headed for the main town of Vila Nova de Santo Andre where the Intermarche supermarket had kindly provided a free service point in their car-park. Just to reciprocate we filled up with nice cheap fuel although there was no obligation; this happens all over Europe and is a sign of how everybody tries to attract and support motor-homers, who do have money to spend. Wish it were so in the UK.

Having decided to stick to the coast this year, having done the inland route last, we now had Lisbon to negotiate. A look at the map revealed a bewildering choice of routes, most of which followed motorways, so we just input an aire in the region we expected to be able to get to without too much rushing, being careful to programme the “no motorways” choice. It's proposed route looked okay to us, basically avoiding Lisbon although we did go through some of the outer suburbs and dormitory areas.

The first part of the route took the main IC1 trunk road, used a lot by HGVs avoiding the toll motorways. All the money spent on motorways means, of course, there is nothing left for normal road maintenance and it showed – some places were worse than Morocco! But once we got away from the major roads it was fine and we paused near Porto Alto (an altogether unattractive town) for lunch.

Shortly our route went cross-country, on good roads and through intensive fruit-growing areas. Along with vineyards we saw huge orchards of what we thought were pears as well as other fruits, but few oranges which grow better further south. Eventually after a lovely drive, we spotted the castle at our destination town, Obidos.

A picturesque touristy walled city crowned with a fine castle, our Rough Guide recommended it. The aire servicing the town is just behind the main car-park only a few minutes walk from the walls and the main gate. With room for a dozen units there were plenty of spaces and all facilities, including very good free WiFi for a reasonable €6 a night. We decided to stay a couple of nights and perhaps go explore tomorrow.

Obidos Castle

Wednesday 16 March

It was actually warmer outside the van than in when we got up so everything is drying up nicely after yesterdays rain. The insulating screens take a little longer though and we had to pack them not quite dry but stored in the shower it won't matter for now.

Moving on today so breakfast, pack up, service the van, say our goodbyes and off. Needed a bit of shopping so called in at a Pingo Doce supermarket in the next major town, Lagos, where we also spotted an apparent aire – lotta motorhomes parked up on a huge area by the football stadium. But there was plenty of room which leads us to believe that people are really now beginning to head home.

Heading north we programmed the satnav for a quiet spot recommended by Karen and Alan, the couple we keep meeting. Taking the, more or less, coast road we enjoyed a pleasant drive firstly through some wooded hills pausing for lunch somewhere or other insignificant. Having negotiated a not-quite-finished motorway in the middle of nowhere and which didn't appear to be connecting anywhere in particular (but we suppose it keeps someone in a job – it's only our money after all), we turned down a quiet road that lead to the nature reserve at Costa de Santo Andre. It was basically a car-park with a couple of cafes and a restaurant plus a small toilet block, servicing the lagoon nature reserve where half a dozen motorhomes were ensconced. There was hardly anybody else there so we picked a nice sunny spot and settled in. Apparently wild-camping is tolerated here; a GNR (police) Landrover cruised by without stopping, but there was still plenty of room so no bother.

Took Jamie for a walk on the beach, accompanied by another dog who looked like he'd come from another motorhome. (Just in case once they'd finished playing we were careful to ensure he returned with us.) The reserve is a protected conservation area around a lagoon fed by a narrow channel from the, currently quite rough, sea and has boardwalks all around it although walking on the beach itself is allowed.

Once we'd worn Jamie out we returned for a cuppa and relax for the rest of the day. We'll probably only stay one night though.

Tuesday 15 March

The same bread man as at Portimao calls here at Alvor, announcing his presence by tooting his horn, thus ensuring the whole campsite is awake! But at least it was quite bright, enough for the solar panel to recharge the batteries, although the forecast was for clouds and rain later.

After breakfast went for a walk into the small town. Basically a fishing village, with quite extensive new sheds and a modern quay, nevertheless it has embraced tourism with lots of holiday flats around the edges of the town accompanied by smart modern and clean building. However the old town has been retained and its narrow streets full of smartly renovated cottages and houses. The main street climbs up from the harbour, where there are several quayside restaurants, and has shops and cafes. Just off the main square is the simple but attractive church.

We walked back around the harbour and along the boardwalk taking us round an area of natural preservation projecting out into the estuary of the Rio Alvor and protecting it from the sea. The main beach of fine sand is huge and has a couple of restaurants in the dunes with views out to the sea. From there it was just a short walk back to the van and lunch, stopping off briefly for a chat with the other Funsters staying here.

However after lunch the clouds rolled in and before long it started to rain, not heavy but enough to keep us inside. No problem, we have plenty to do although Jamie was a bit miffed that he couldn't play outside. And that's how it stayed for much of the rest of the day, only clearing away after it got dark and then the temperature started dropping. It is still March after all.

We're going to start heading northwards tomorrow.

Monday 14 March

Day 72 – the time just seems to fly by and the channel crossing seems a very long time ago.

We hadn't been able to make our minds up to stay or move on, taking into account the weather forecast which was predicting a cloudy day today with a possibility of rain tomorrow. The day started sunny, although we were probably not going to be sunbathing after burning yesterday, but then started to cloud over so we said move on.

Along the N125 we had noticed a lot of orange sellers and having already decided to stock up enough to take home we planned to get them today – last year after taking a wrong turn we got off the N125 and didn't see any so this time we'll make sure. So with the inland town of Silves programmed into the satnav, after emptying the waste tanks we headed out. But no orange sellers! Was it too early (after 11.00) or Monday? Whatever, we resolved to stay on the N125 (which is the main non-motorway road through the Algarve incidentally) until we found one, which of course we eventually did. Three big bags of large oranges at €2 each later, we headed again for Silves.

Silves Castle

We've passed through Silves before and thought what a nice place it looked although parking at that time was unofficial and chaotic. Since then the local council have cracked down and parking is now confined to three aires so we had a look. The first, a finished but not officially open site, was grotty and packed, probably because it was free. The second, a commercial aire (i.e. a basic campsite) looked nice but again full, and was a little way out of town. We had no reports of the third, just satnav coordinates so TomTom took us through the back streets of Silves, behind the castle and to the cemetery. It was a very nice looking place but small and, we thought erroneously, again a little way out of town so we gave that a miss too. It was only when we headed back toward the coast we realised we had come in a big circle and it was in fact quite close to the town, but we had by then made our minds up.

Another place we looked at last year was Alvor, on the coast about 15km from Portimao and where Terrys friend Ed stayed two or three winters. At the time the aire, right on the beach, looked a bit scruffy and forlorn with a lot of motorhomes actually parked in the beach car parking areas (now prohibited but there are still a handful parked there). The beach (for Jamie) being the attraction we headed there and found a somewhat more pleasant aire where some effort seemed to have been made to tidy it up and which was quite busy. With the reception caravan closed for lunch we drove around and found a pleasant spot in a corner with plenty of sun and parked up next to some more Funsters – they get everywhere! This'll do us for a couple of nights and we spent the rest of the day doing, well, not a lot. A bit of sitting out in the sun (but not for long) and some chatting to the new neighbours. Dogs of course make a great talking point and next door had two, a chocolate lab and a labradoodle who Jamie loved playing with.

Sunday 13 March

It's Sunday so bacon and eggs again – this time with some, almost right, thin streaky rashers from Lidl. The knack is to cook them very quickly otherwise they crisp into crumbs.

Our only plans for today were to take Jamie down to the superb beach at Praia de Rocha so after breakfast he had a whale of a time for a couple of hours chasing all over, even in and out of the sea while we strolled gently in the hot sunshine – and both caught the sun. Ice-creams on our way back were most welcome; Jamie loves ice-cream too, but not too much.

More vans had left the aire this morning, leaving it looking quite empty but late afternoon there was an influx although still plenty of room. Among the nationalities we've noticed quite a lot of Norwegians this year and there is a small enclave quite near to us. However the Germans and Dutch have a majority here, followed by Brits and French in roughly equal numbers with a smattering of Belgians, Italians, Spanish and a few Portuguese too. We only say this to point out what an international pastime motor-homing is.

Lots of aftersun before bed!

Saturday 12 March

Another bright start with little wind; no rush but packing up etc. is now down to a fine art and it doesn't take us long. A lovely site this and we hope they resolve their problems as we would love to come back.

The plan today was to head to Portimao and get some gas, shopping and cash on the way. Gas was no problem but we had an aborted attempt to find an Intermarche – the signs just ran out! However we knew we had a choice in Portimao so carried on, being held up briefly at roadworks by the bridge. At last the N125 is being repaired, we've been through several sets of roadworks and apart from near the border much of it has already been completed.

Lidl has embraced motor-homing and many of their stores now have at least four dedicated motorhome parking bays and there is also usually more room in unmarked areas so we stopped at their Portimao shop. Shopping completed and the cash machine eventually persuaded to part with some money, we continued on to the marina aire at Praia de Rocha, the beach resort for Portimao.

We've stopped here several times before and met a number of our Funster friends here too. We had heard that it was very crowded, and indeed the main parking area was full but the overspill field had plenty of room so we pitched up in a biggish space and got some lunch. Later talking to neighbouring Brits we learned that up until this morning this field too had been quite crowded but had emptied quickly – more evidence that folk were starting to head home, probably for Easter in two weeks time.

Last time we were here we were taken to a cafe restaurant at Pingo Doce, a supermarket chain, and had an amazingly cheap excellent meal so thought we might do it again. Leaving Jamie on his own, we strolled along the riverfront, past the docks to the restaurant which is in an outer suburb of Portimao, about 20 min walk. Once again we had an excellent meal at a very good price then a quick “mooch” around the shop but there was nothing we needed.

The walk back was quite cold but thankfully what wind there was was behind us. A delirious welcome from Jamie then hot chocolate with Baileys rounded off our evening.

Friday 11 March

Up earlyish to see to Jamie, but he seems recovered now and back to his usual boisterous self. The wind has gone round to the SW and dropped so it is a lot warmer. So, little to get done today apart from catching up with the blog – the NOS simcard is all that was promised, a really fast reliable connection which easily supports both laptop and Hudl, for Facebook, at the same time. A tad more expensive than Morocco, €10 for ten days of unlimited 3G or 4G if available, and we've had a good signal everywhere.

We'll move on tomorrow – seems a shame when the weather seems to have finally settled down and this is such a nice spot. But we don't want to end up rushing about.

Thursday 10 March

Bren was up first to take the dog out but he got into some distress when he couldn't poo and didn't know what to do with himself. We had heard of this before – he needed his anal glands squeezing. Sounds messy, and it was! Managed to clear a small blockage and he promptly dumped the rest on the floor-mat, but he was in a right old mess and we spent quite some time trying to clean him up. Eventually we resorted to a bowl of warm water, which did the trick, and he settled down although remained very subdued for most of the day. Dogs!

Poorly puppy

After (a late) breakfast Bren took advantage of the warm sunshine and fresh breeze (yep, we've still got it) to get the washing done. No machines here so resorted to the old fashioned way but it was all completed and dry by the end of the day. Terry spent quite a lot of time filling/emptying tanks! Then it was settle down and keep the dog company.

A little about this site. It's only been open just over 12 months but is already very attractive. The main building houses the pottery, a small garden centre and a popular cafe/bar which does meals a couple of times a week as a sort of community event, as well as the main ablutions block. The pitches are all marked out with stone borders, planted with shrubs. There are pitches of various size to cater for all sizes of motorhome – one section is dedicated to RV's, the really big units – and all on hardstanding; probably a good idea as the underlying surface is sand and would probably be very muddy or dusty dependant upon the weather. There are water taps and a couple of extra small ablutions blocks dotted about, more being built. There are a couple of landscaped ponds and a larger carp pool being excavated, intended to provide fishing. Quite a few vans are long-term residents.

Not as crowded as it looks.

Decent size pitches, nicely marked out

However we learned that they do have a problem, probably originated by a rival campsite, in that approx. half the site only has agricultural planning permission and the site owner has been given notice to clear it. We understand that negotiations are under way to have this changed; we spotted the owner showing some people around and it looks promising. It would be a shame to lose such a lovely spot which is sure to be very popular when the word goes round.

Around teatime Jamie perked up and demanded his tea; as we were having chicken and rice he got some too, it apparently being just the thing for poorly puppies. He wolfed that but still demanded more so he got a small helping of his usual dinner; we didn't want to give him more until we were happy he was okay, despite him still asking. Cut down on his treats too in case that has an effect.

Wednesday 9 March

Move on today after a surprisingly pleasant stay at Vila Real. First call to find Lidl for a few groceries and the telecom shop, which Terry passed within 10 metres of yesterday! Then top up the fuel tank and head westwards.

Our first call was at Manta Rota where there is a lovely aire we stayed at 2 years ago. However we had heard that it had been full since December and this proved to be the case – strike 1. So trundle along the coast and on a whim turned into Tavira, following our noses towards the Praia (beach) and finding a large piece of open land very obviously being used for wild camping although there were only a few vans parked when we arrived. As it was lunchtime we stopped for an hour but really didn't much fancy it, although it would have been okay at a push, so looked up a couple more places, this time at Albufeira.

The TomTom took us inland and then along a stretch of the A2 motorway, which we had been trying to avoid – naughty but we didn't spot any toll cameras so we may have gotten away with it. The first was a little bit out in the sticks but looked very nice, both in the book and in real life. Unfortunately, although we were told we could overnight in the overflow car-park and wait for a space tomorrow, it was also full so we pushed on. Strike 2.

The next was in a suburb of Albufeira on an old football field which again looked nice, but again was full. Strike 3. Not yet unduly worried we set off for two more, one of which appeared uninspiring but was almost certain to have room and another which looked just the ticket but had received some negative comments on the forum. We passed the uninspiring one, which was almost empty, and found the last one just down the road; and up a cart track; then another cart track.

Mikkis Place to Stay (yes that's it's title) near Pera at first glance looked a little quirky and rather full, but the lady in the bar told us to go find a spot and then come back to reception when it opened at 5.00 pm. Getting further in we found a delightful “aire” with plenty of spaces, all in marked out bays with lots of room in each one, so we plumped for a spot which would give us full sun all day and hopefully a bit of shelter from the wind. It was really more of a campsite that was attached to a pottery with friendly and enthusiastic staff and we were persuaded to stay for 3 nights for only €5 per night (we declined electric hookup at €2.50 extra, we don't need it) a real bargain.

We quickly found other Funsters, as well as a lot of Germans and Dutch (the French hadn't managed to take over here!) then settled in. There's even a small accessory shop, but he didn't have the bit we needed for the cassette; he offered to order it, but it would take too long.

Tuesday 8 March

And he switched the b----y thing back on at 8.45 am! Ah well, but we're not staying here with the potential of more noise so after breakfast we packed everything up. Then having spotted, and chatted to, Alan and Karen from Sanlucar we decided to just relocate – people moving on all morning meant we found a much nicer spot with sea (well, river) views.

Although we have passed Vila Real several times before, we've never stopped, believing it to be a somewhat scruffy border town that used to host a ferry crossing to Spain, just across the river. But Alan and Karen had explored yesterday and told us it was really nice so after setting up again, we put Jamie on his lead and set off to explore.

The area around the parking is ex-docks and generally rather industrial, although pains have obviously been taken to smarten it all up. But it wasn't far before we came to the residential/shopping part and found modern buildings and a smart pedestrianised street with shops and cafes as well as relaxing open squares and all spotlessly clean. Part of our visit was to find a particular shop to get a data-sim for the internet, but despite wandering around where we thought it should be, we couldn't locate it.

So we walked on down to the river, past a very impressive Fire Station then a futuristic public library – despite it being an allegedly poor country someone was spending a lot of money. Come to think of it, probably us, through the EU! Then from here

Roundabout art again

we strolled along the river promenade, past the marina with millions of pounds worth of boats tied up and, with a very tired puppy, back to Bertie for a late lunch!

Jamie surveys the path home

Beautifully restored Grand Hotel

Later in the day, after having checked the directions again, Terry walked back into town to try and find the shop, but with no luck. Not to worry, we'll try again tomorrow on our way out when we'll need to do a bit of shopping before heading west again. Where to? No idea!

Monday 7 March

Moving on today and for a change got a reasonable start with the satnav programmed for a caravan dealer in Jerez, about 20km away. Regretfully, despite trying two “addresses” no trace could be found, although we did find a metal fabricator with the same name. Hmmmm!

So reprogramme for another caravan place in Seville and we took to the autopista (toll motorway) having been this way before and knowing it was quite slow on the ordinary roads. It wasn't too expensive though and the address we were looking for was just off the main road into the city.

Only there was no caravan place there either. Funny, when you don't need them they're popping up all over the place but we haven't seen a single one today despite covering quite a lot of ground. Not to worry though, we'll just keep an eye open as we trundle around; as we said yesterday we can manage okay for now.

So back onto the autovia to head for Portugal, pausing at a service area for a quick snack lunch and exercise Jamie. (He's so good when travelling we forget he's there.) Just perusing the signposts, one caught our eye; El Rompido is one of a small number of coastal villages that are only accessed straight off the main road. There is no road connecting them, it's just there and back, but this one intrigued us. It turned out to be a tiny village with a small ferry to an adjacent island that was nothing but beach. But it had been expanded out of all recognition by hundreds of holiday apartments together with a few hotels and was very smart – but closed! The harbour car-park had a few motorhomes parked up and we suppose it would probably have been okay to stop, but we would have taken the last two remaining parking spaces, so we didn't.

Instead we headed back to the main road, our curiosity satisfied, and Portugal. Getting a bit later now than we normally like to stop, once across the border bridge and registered for the auto-toll system, we headed straight for the aire at Vila Real de Santo Antonio (don't you just love these long names). Having been warned that many of the aires were full, or nearly so, we were relieved to find a few spaces left, so gratefully slotted in next to a Brit and got the kettle on. Then as it got dark (earlier here because Portugal is on GMT) he started his generator.

To say we're not fans of portable generators is a bit of an understatement. The drone, vibrations and the fumes are very off-putting and it doesn't help if the b----y thing is just a few feet from your door. Now they may very well have a very good reason to require extra electrical power, for example some kind of medical machinery, but in the modern world of solar panels, large capacity batteries and inverters they are so unnecessary – and anyway electrical hookup is available on this aire! But being live-and-let-live people we put up with it, although we decided if it wasn't switched off by 9.00 pm we would have words. But it was, so peace (finally) ensued.

Sunday 6 March

We bought something in the supermarket that looked like bacon. Well it was thinly cut pork so we suppose it was theoretically bacon and eggs for breakfast “but not as we know it Jim”!

Whenever we (or rather Terry) service the toilet great care is taken to ensure the cap on the spout doesn't get lost. So managing to lose the top slider cover (I'll not get too technical) was a bit of a surprise – couldn't have made a neater flight down the open drain if I'd tried! Fortunately it is not an essential part of the mechanism, just stops potential leaks while carrying the cassette, but we'll try to get a replacement if we can find a caravan accessory shop. There are supposed to be a couple on our route to Portugal tomorrow.

Not much doing today; it's still bright sunshine but also still quite breezy off the sea so sitting out is not very comfortable. We've had several “natters” with other Brits though, including yet another couple who would like to visit Morocco. We're becoming quite the experts.

Late afternoon phone call to Mum – it's Mothering Sunday – and she sounded a bit miffed that she didn't get a card from us. Sorry Mum but we can't remember everything.

Where's my tea!

Saturday 5 March

Just after we had gone to bed last night the wind got up and it rained – for about 10 seconds!

A bit later start today but there's no rush and waiting for the sun to start warming up saves on the heating! After breakfast took Jamie onto the beach for an hour for a good run around and the occasional paddle. He was a bit perplexed by the pony carts and didn't know whether to chase them, bark at them or what. Instead he chased after his ball.

But the wind was cold and straight off the sea still so back to Bertie for a coffee then a trip across the road for fresh baguettes – literally straight from the oven.

It was at the beginning of our walk that we realised we'd met a British couple parked just across the way from us before and after a bit of head-scratching and diary checking we realised it was at Ampudia at Easter last year on our way home. They too were Funsters who we had met before then; can't now remember when but it might have been in Morocco. It's a small world.

With nothing else we particularly wanted or needed to do, and the wind still blowing fresh and cool, we retreated to the van for books and sewing. Bren is embroidering a quilt which her Mam started years ago and which she brings away with us every trip. But at her present rate of progress it'll be a while yet before it's finished!

The weather forecast said it was probably going to be cloudy today but returning to sunshine tomorrow and gradually getting warmer over the next week, similar for Portugal. It only started to cloud over early evening but doesn't look like it will amount to much.

Friday 4 March

Despite us being parked right next to the main road, after 11.00 pm it's quiet so we had a peaceful night, awakening to yet another bright sunny day but still with a cool breeze coming off the sea.

Bren was in need of a haircut so after breakfast we went in search after consulting our trusty TomTom who informed us there were 3 close together less than 5 mins walk away. No there weren't, but the dog got a good walk anyway and we had a long chat with some Funsters Terry met yesterday. We returned for a cup of coffee after watching a chap trying to shovel sand back off the promenade onto the beach with a mini-digger. He was making a right job out of it and of course the wind was just blowing it straight back again. Ah well, suppose it keeps him in a job. To be fair there is a lot of sand around on the roads and pavements, it's obviously been very windy here recently.

After lunch of a delicious baguette bought from a local shop, who must be making a mint out of all the motorhomes parked here (we later counted over 100), we tried again to find a hairdresser and this time were successful and they could fit Brenda in in 40 mins. Strolled back to the van to wait then Terry got a chair out in the sunshine with Jamie while Bren had her hair done. Not a bad job either, if a little expensive.

And that was about that for the rest of the day, apart from watching optimistic motorhomers driving round and round, trying to find a space. It's very busy here now.

Thursday 3 March

An earlyish start to attempt a reasonable getaway but things get in the way like people suddenly wanting to know all about Morocco and saying extended goodbyes to people we've perhaps spoken to once...........

But by 11.15 we were at reception waiting to pay, behind an elderly Spanish lady who wanted to know everything about everything and actually learned nothing – but at least she did apologise for keeping half the campsite waiting. So at 11.45 we pulled out; we like this place and no doubt will be back again in the future.

First stop shopping and we headed for the large Carrefour at the El Paseo shopping centre. As usual we went in with a list of a few bits and pieces and spent €112 on a very full trolley load which then had to be packed away. So we stopped for lunch.

On a glorious afternoon we thought we'd have a run along the coast, well as close as we could get; there's a huge American navy base, the largest in Europe apparently, at Rota which is where the various helicopters and jets we've seen floating about came from. There is also a small aire there which we had a look at; very nice but a bit in the middle of nowhere although right next to the beach. Too quiet for us but useful to know about.

A little further north there is a place called Costa Ballena which looked interesting but turned out to be a holiday complex with hotels and hundreds of apartments, mostly closed. So we continued to the small modern town of Chipiona which turned out to be very ordinary although we did notice how remarkably clean and tidy everywhere was. With nothing further of interest therefore we carried on to Sanlucar de Barremeda and the large (free) aire close to the town centre and right next to the estuary of Guardal Quivir, the river that passes through Seville. Sanlucar is another port for the sherry industry and we can see small coasters going in and out from our pitch.

We were here last year and it was less than half full; quite different today when we found there wasn't much choice of pitches left and had to settle for a spot close to the main road, so a bit noisy. But at least we (should) get full sun for most of the day, helped by a German van parking next to us but far enough away to avoid casting us into shadow. We later counted around 100 motorhomes parked up here of various nationalities including quite a lot of Spanish and Brits; we were told that it had filled up suddenly from around lunchtime, no idea why although we did spot several vans that had been at El Puerto de Santa Maria, obviously doing the same as us. Some Funsters here too, though none we already knew.

We'll probably stop here a couple of days, it's a nice place to stroll around and sit in the sun.

Wednesday 2 March

Hooray, the big motorhome has gone so we can now enjoy some sunshine, so after breakfast got the chores done quickly then stretched out for some proper rays at last. That is until Jamie wants to play.......

After lunch some very high cloud took the heat out of the sun and another cool breeze sprang up so spent an hour rearranging storage under the bed to accommodate the, now redundant, gas bottle. Then as it got cooler retired to the van to see if we'd got any internet.

A few replies to our request yesterday – Portimao is still okay – but apart from discovering that friends who have been there since before Christmas have gone home, we're no further forward on that score. We'll probably go do some shopping first and maybe have a look along the coast. There's a nice aire at Sanlucar we stopped at last year, might have a look in there and maybe stop the weekend. The weather forecast is showing a dull and possibly wet Saturday but clearing and warming up again – it's the weather that is now going to be the dictating force.

Tuesday 1 March

Apart from washing the towels and doing meals, today we've done nothing much. The sun has been shining all day and finally the breeze has dropped so it's been quite pleasant. Unfortunately there is a very big motorhome parked next to us, effectively blocking out the sun so sitting out is a waste of time. Grrrrr!

We're planning to move on on Thursday but can't make up our minds where to go. We've been to Seville twice so it won't be there so we either go not very far and find an aire somewhere nice, or head for Portugal. We have heard though that Portugal is rather crowded, probably because of all the French who didn't go to Morocco, and also that the big aire at Portimao is possibly being closed, so we're trying to do a bit of research and ask people who are already there.

But after 7.00 pm the internet is just about useless as, although we've got a good signal, everybody is online and the system cannot cope. So internetting is going to have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.