Monday 29 February

Another bright but cold start, priority getting the washing finished which Bren organised straight after breakfast. Meanwhile Terry carried out the now usual chores, carrying water, emptying tanks – and moving the van a bit as some French came onto the pitch in front of us with quite a large van and needed to use the whole length. Unfortunately due to a miscalculation we were very slightly over the end of ours so we were a bit too close together.

With the washing hung out to dry in the sunshine and gentle, but cool, breeze we had lunch then nice hot showers in the immaculate ablutions block – luverly! Still a little too cool to sit outside we spent the remainder of then afternoon doing nothing, listening to some rather loud Brits in French registered vans across the way.

It's certainly much colder here than last year, when the diary shows we were experiencing temperatures in excess of 30 deg although we're about one week earlier. Looking to our next destination the forecast is to remain bright but cool all along this coastline in both directions, not what we'd come to expect, so for the moment we'll wait and see.

Bit galling then when we look at the UK news to find “they” are saying it's the "warmest" UK winter since 1921!

Sunday 28 February

We'd managed to buy some “sort-of” bacon in Carrefour so we got our Sunday bacon and eggs. But it was a very slow start, probably due to us making a bit of a fuss of Jamie who had been sick during the night, and our disinclination to do much of anything. We still had a couple of loads of washing to do but frankly couldn't be bothered. So we didn't. It's quite nice to be able to do just as you please!

Although the sun was shining there was still a cool breeze and the sun loungers stayed packed away. Lunch was quite late but after we took Jamie onto the beach. El Puerto de Santa Maria has quite a big sandy beach, half of which never sees the sea but is kept pristine by the winds. Even on a Sunday it was almost empty so we had no qualms about letting Jamie off the lead and an hour of chasing his ball while slowly walking along the beach then back along the waters edge where he had a little paddle but showed none of the usual doggy enthusiasm for water.

But he likes digging in the sand

Who? Me?

Well come and get it then!

Turning back towards the campsite Terry suddenly realised his wallet, with driving licence, credit cards and a substantial amount of cash, was not in his pocket. Disaster! So we retraced our steps, which was actually quite easy to do, back along the beach but to no avail – oh dear or other words to that effect. We returned to the van, calling in at reception to find out where the police station was, only to discover the wallet on the floor alongside the drivers seat where it must have fallen unnoticed whilst paying a bill on the internet earlier. Phew!

A latish tea then another quiet evening. The wind had dropped and the stars were out in a clear sky again as Terry took Jamie for his pre-bedtime constitutional.

Saturday 27 February

The wind kept up all night but there was no more rain and everything was drying out nicely so after breakfast Bren organised a couple of loads of washing. You need to contact one of the cleaning ladies who opens up the laundry and gets you started – but it's quite expensive so we didn't use the dryers, hoping the wind would do that for us. So Terry got the whirlygig out and also set up a line to take advantage of the still fresh wind.

Despite bright sunshine for most of the day it remained cool, as forecast so we're not too bothered. Terry walked round to the supermarket for some essentials and that just about summed up our day. The washing was dry by teatime so we'll try to get the rest done tomorrow.

The campsite seems to be relatively quiet; quite a few vans around us have gone and a number of pitches which are not in very good condition have been closed off – a guy came round with a tractor this morning and spread piles of sand on the worst ones. Seems the grass doesn't get much chance to recover here.

As I write in late evening the wind has dropped right off but with a clear sky I think it's going to be a cold one again.

Friday 26 February

Dry and bright start though occasionally cloudy but the forecast is showing heavy rain showers later in the day and not really getting warm again until early next the week. After breakfast serviced the van but it started to rain and the wind picked up so get the chairs in and batten down the hatches. We had planned to get some washing done and Bren had got it sorted but we decided not to take the chance of having a pile of wet washing with nowhere to dry it.

By lunchtime it was raining quite heavily and the pitch next to us was flooding. Fortunately our outdoor mat was pinned down so we left it – at least it'll keep the mud out. So for the rest of the day we stayed indoors; plenty of books to read and a reasonable internet connection using the “3” sim card we got in the UK and their “Feel at Home” facility. It's now useable in Spain so got it topped up and see how it goes. Mind, we think everybody on the site is on the internet 'cos it's a bit slow.

After tea the rain petered out but there was still a fresh breeze which had cleared the clouds away; think it's probably going to be a cold one.

Thursday 25 February

No need for a rush start, although we did set the alarm and Jamie wanted/needed to be out – he's turned out to be so good about waiting for us to get up. He's also quite content to curl up in his cage whilst travelling for quite long periods, as well as stay happily on his own in the van when we can't take him out with us. But he does demand quite a bit of attention when we get back........

Anyway, we're back in Spain and our first requirement is to get some shopping done. We're parked right next to a large Carrefour so after breakfast grabbed a trolley and passed an hour or so filling it – we even managed to get things that were on Brens shopping list! Then lunch and decide what we do next.

Of things to be considered we had a big pile of laundry to get through and also the weather forecast was not so good for a couple of days, although currently the sun was shining and it was quite warm. Our friends were heading north east along the Spanish coast with commitments in mind but our plans had always been to go the other way and into Portugal. Perusing the map showed that a full campsite we have used twice in the past and having everything we needed, including a large beach close by for Jamie to run about on, was less than 2 hours drive away. So the satnav was programmed and we set off up the autovia, calling in at a filling station to refill the gas bottles on the way, destination El Puerto de Santa Maria.

Camping Playa Los Dunas is quite a large site, close to the beach and within easy walking distance of shops and local transport as well as a nice, if modest, town. Their computer system still had us in memory so a rapid check-in and we were allocated a nice pitch with sun all day, except for a portion of the afternoon when a tree casts some shade – it'll probably actually be welcome but we'll see. A chat with new neighbours, set up and a cuppa. We've booked in for 7 nights and have in mind visits to Cadiz and Jerez de la Frontera, as well as the chores. Have to think about Jamie though as dogs aren't welcome on public transport here apparently.

Morocco 2016

So ended our visit to Morocco this year. We had said before that four weeks wasn't long enough and eight was too long, well for us anyway. This time we were a tad short of six weeks and it felt about right, although the abrupt change of plans mid-visit may have had some effect. Because of those changes we didn't get to see or do a number of things we had planned but despite that we made the best of the situation and still enjoyed ourselves very much.

Highlights? We love Tafraoute up in the mountains and could have stayed longer, but apart from our time constraints a poor weather forecast (which turned out to be quite accurate) encouraged us to move on. We also love Moulay Bousselham and making the time to spend the last few days there was perfect. Of course these are two entirely different parts of Morocco and, looking back, it's easy to see how different each part of the country is, and that itself is part of our love of Morocco.

That and the hot weather of course!

So will we come back? The answer has to be very probably, although with this years experiences in mind it will be done very differently and may even be later in the year.

But now we've got the rest of our winter break to enjoy.

Wednesday 24 February

An earlyish start as today we're heading back to Spain but despite this, by the time we'd packed, serviced the van, paid and said our goodbyes it was gone 11.00 by the time we were away. But it's less than 2 hours drive up the motorway so we were not unduly concerned, although it was soon obvious that we'd missed our chance of getting an earlier crossing – we were “booked” on the 4.00 pm.

Although it was not needed we took the opportunity of topping off the fuel tank with cheap diesel; at 50p per litre every little helps! Arriving at the port we again encountered the “helpers”, guys who tried to make out they were official and would take you to the various places, i.e. the check-in desk, then expect to be paid for their trouble. They're not necessary so we just ignored them.

Despite everything being somewhat bureaucratic, check-in, Police and Customs clearances went smoothly and quickly. Every vehicle is X-rayed before proceeding to the quayside, so we had to get out and also of course take Jamie with us, who then enjoyed himself playing with the Customs man! Arriving on the dock we discovered to our chagrin that we had just missed the earlier, fast ferry which pulled out as we arrived. Bother, or other such exclamations!

So having a couple of hours to kill we had lunch and Bren had a snooze while Terry used up some of the leftover internet allowance. Next time we won't buy as much as even though it is so cheap we resent throwing away 13 gigabytes of data allowance!

And then the fun (!) started. By 3.50 pm there was no sign of a ferryboat. We waited and waited until eventually at 4.50 it turned up. Then of course it had to be unloaded and the Moroccan Immigration officers inspect the passports of everyone getting off as they do so, even the car and lorry drivers! And the foot passengers who also used the vehicle ramp! It's not surprising therefore that it was 5.30 before we started loading, being directed deep into the bowels of the ship. Then all the lorries had to be loaded – in reverse one at a time. Talk about frustrating.

Meanwhile we were sitting in the passenger lounge which was slowly filling up with foot passengers, mostly migrant workers returning home with loads of luggage which was getting under everybodys feet. Then the baby started crying.............

At 6.30 pm the ship pulled away so we decided to celebrate with a cup of coffee, only to find the attendant had just gone off on his break. But at least there was another coffee bar further forward so we did manage to get our drinks and thereafter enjoyed a very smooth hour and a half crossing.

But you now have to add on an hour for the change of time zone – Morocco (as well as Portugal) is on GMT but of course all the other European countries are plus one hour, so our arrival time was in fact 9.00 pm local. And we had still to get off the ship, but of course first on, last off. It took 40 mins to get off then pass through police and customs checks – but nobody took any notice of Jamie!

Fortunately it was only 10 mins to our planned overnight stop, back on the car park by the ticket agent. Of course, having not had an evening meal we were rather hungry and the only place open was....... McDonalds. But any port in a storm and we enjoyed giant chickenburgers, frites and coffee, finished off with a McFlurry each. Then back to Bertie for a welcome good nights sleep.

Tuesday 23 February

A cool night but a promising start to the day which rapidly, as forecast yesterday, became very warm. A few little jobs to sort out, including checking all the paperwork for our ferry crossing tomorrow and then the recliner chairs were put to good use.

Late morning two more of the original group turned up, making six now and a swapping of experiences enjoyed. Then after lunch topped off the water tanks – bit of a chore as the nearest tap is a little way away so empty water bottles were pressed into service. It was really just to save time in the morning as, although there is no rush, everything seems to take forever and we don't want to be rushing up the motorway to catch our ferry.

Bren is suffering a bit with mozzie bites, she has really reacted to several which itch like crazy. Fortunately Derek had some anti-histamine tablets but they have the side effect of making her feel tired.

So some more late afternoon sun for T before a last chinwag with Derekl and June, who are also crossing back to Spain tomorrow. We still have no idea what we're going to do, apart from a big shop in Algeciras where we'll stop overnight chez Carlos.

I'm writing this sitting on the quay at Tangier-Med ferry port on Wednesday, waiting for the 4-00 ferry while we still have a good internet connection. Hopefully our “3” sim card will provide us with internet in Spain but if there is a delay until the next post, sorry!

Monday 22 February

A cloudy and dull start, as forecast, so spent the morning doing chores, servicing and also giving the outside of the van a wash – it was filthy but after doing all the wheels and windows it looks smart again.

After lunch the sun came out so we took Jamie for a walk, first to the beach but the tide was in and it was full of fishing boats. So we climbed several flights of steep stome steps to the village which gave us some superb views including one over the lagoon and campsite.

A single street village, with a small souk off it, there were plenty of cafes and restaurants, all empty and touting for business – this seems to be a bit of a seaside place and many of the houses have the look of holiday homes. Bread and fruit purchased to top up the larder then back to the van for a cuppa and snooze in the last sun of the day. We were told by a local that the weather will be fine tomorrow.

Sunday 21 February

We've run out of bacon! Luckily a small tin of bacon grill was found so we got our Sunday bacon and eggs.

The pitch next to us became vacant so Derek and June moved over – then we realised it was plenty big enough for both vans and we'd also have full sun all day so we spent half an hour shuffling around until we've got a perfect spot. Electricity too although we still need the long leads. We also discovered one of the original group parked a little way over.

Perfect pitch - taken as sun was just setting.

And that was just about that for the rest of the day. Another of the original group turned up during the afternoon and we also had a good long chat with another Brit who used to have a van the same as ours.

The campsite has a cafe/restaurant serving a good variety of meals so we thought we'd try it out and enjoyed lamb brochettes. No frills but nicely cooked and friendly staff, even if we were the only patrons. Reasonably priced too.

Saturday 20 February

Moving on again today so early start as it is quite a long drive, although we've planned to use the excellent motorways as we've travelled this way a couple of times already. The tolls are quite reasonable and it makes for more relaxing driving.

So away by 10.30 on a generally nice morning although we did get a few spots of rain passing Casablanca, where we could also see the pollution haze over the city. Thereafter it gradually improved until we were back to warm sunshine which was then set for the rest of the day.

18 donkeys in the back of a truck - new definition of donkey cart

They're still doing the roadworks on the Rabat ring-road, which slowed us down a bit, and once clear we took a lunch stop, taking the opportunity to refuel, at a service area. Then on to one of our favourite spots from last year, Moulay Bousselham which is on a lagoon with just a small outlet to the sea. The campsite is alongside the lagoon, which has a variety of bird life, supposedly including a large flock of flamingos, which have yet to be seen by anyone we know. Pitches are amongst the trees with electricity points scattered about, some of which actually work! However this means that parking tends to be a bit higgledy piggledy with a lot of wasted space making finding a nice spot a little taxing. We eventually settled on a pretty spot amongst the trees with a working electricity point close by – there are always people coming and going so we'll watch for something better later.

The weather forecast is good for the next few days so we will make this our last stop in Morocco as it is less than 2 hours to the ferry port and there is no real advantage in moving up to Asilah.

Friday 19 February

Wind and rain overnight had died down although there was still a breeze drying things out when we made a latish start – we can't hear the Immams call to prayers here see.........

After breakfast a session cleaning and servicing the van again – the outside is filthy after yesterdays journey and it's going to need more than a bucket and cloth this time. Anyway there is still rain in the forecast so it can wait a bit. Incidentally we learned that it was actually snowing up at Tafraoute – looks like we got out at a good time.

After lunch the skies cleared so, as hoped, we walked down to the town along the seafront and to the Medina, which is still referred to as the Portuguese City, despite them having left 450 years ago! The Rough Guide was mildly enthusiastic about the place but we found it rather uninteresting, most of the buildings poorly repaired and generally uncared for, which is of course quite typical for Morocco. The exception was the Cistern, an underground vault that we really couldn't get a proper idea of what it was for, except that the floor was mostly covered in a thin sheet of water reflecting the arches, and our “guide” only mentioned that when it rained it flooded. Photogenic though.

We explored a little further, investigating the walls and came across what was most probably the Spanish Chapel. The Rough Guide had warned that it was abandoned and our Cistern guide confirmed it's location, so we viewed what was really a derelict and defaced building, held up only by those surrounding it. No signs, nothing touristy at all, in fact even we were taken no notice of.

Don't ask me, no idea

So we wandered out of the Medina and crossed the main street to the town square which, it being 4.00 pm, was starting to come alive. We stopped for a coffee then headed back towards the campsite along what was very obviously the main street, full of shops and street traders, offices, apartments and new developments; in fact very busy indeed. El Jadida, as well as being the site of ancient settlements, is very much a modern city, as cities go in Morocco.

Back to the van (it surely wasn't that far when we walked in?) for a welcome cuppa before a latish tea and a quiet and probably early night. Tomorrow we hit the road again.

Incidentally the campsite has a small flock of peacocks, well one peacock and several peahens, one of which was albino.

Thursday 18 February

Although the day started bright and the wind had dropped, a bank of cloud was slowly rolling in from the sea and soon the sun disappeared. So after breakfast we had an earlyish start for the long drive up to El Jadeda. Before we left Essaouira we refuelled Bertie; should be enough now to get up to the filling station just before the port where we'll top off with cheap fuel. Every little helps!

Our route took us along the N1, the main arterial road linking larger towns and cities along the coast, which of course was quite busy although we had few hold-ups, only slowing down to crawl through the occasional town, which is necessary because traffic laws seem to go out the window when you pass the town name signpost. Cyclists, pedestrians, donkey carts and grandes taxis all do their own thing, taking very little notice of any other traffic so a crawl is the safest way of proceeding.

But as we progressed north so the weather deteriorated, the cloud becoming heavier and lower and eventually spots appeared on the windscreen. A short break for lunch and the rain caught us up so that from there on, it was windscreen wiper weather.

El Jadeda is quite a large town but TomTom navigated us without problem round the outside and straight to Camping International just to the north of the centre. We did actually call here last year but found it very crowded and didn't stop. This time there was plenty of room; it was just a matter of finding a couple of pitches on the hard sand that were not likely to flood in the increasingly heavy rain. We could have parked on a hard-standing area but everybody else was there and were crowded quite close together. It was't until later that we realised why – satellite reception. There are a lot of trees and only one side of the site has clear sky for TV reception.

Derek's van developed a water-ingress problem when it started to rain so we spent a few minutes trying to reseal a joint that had been knocked several weeks ago in a glancing collision with a bus – as I write, with the rain now heavy and persistent, it seems to be okay.

A quiet evening then. The rain was well forecast so we're not too bothered, it just makes taking Jamie out a bit of a chore. It's supposed to be the same tomorrow; hope not as we would like to visit the old Portuguese City which for us is one of the attractions of El Jadeda.

Meanwhile, we've got the heating on.............!

Wednesday 17 February

It's a fine morning, albeit quite breezy. We had hoped that the huge sand dune we're parked behind would offer some protection but the angle must be not quite right 'cos it's quite fresh!

We had planned to walk into town today to revisit and perhaps have lunch but after breakfast Bren wasn't feeling too good so we gave our apologies to Derek and June and stayed in – Bren went back to bed and Terry had a quiet morning internetting/reading. Apart of course from the periodic demands from the pooch to be taken out!

After lunch Bren was much better but we decided to just stay put and relax for the rest of the day. A chin-wag in the evening pretty well formalised our plans for the rest of our time in Morocco.

Tuesday 16 February

As we went to bed last night it started to rain. However it didn't amount to much although today as we headed north again there was evidence of quite heavy showers. We had decided on a couple of days at Essaouira, mainly for the huge beach for Jamie, but also to visit the town again and maybe have lunch out.

So after breakfast and servicing the van (no facilities at Essaouira) we took the pretty way back to the main road, despite warnings from other Funsters that it was “interesting”. But we enjoy a challenge and despite the slow going the scenery as the road clung to the cliff edge was worth the effort. At least the only truck we met was in the next village where we had room to manoeuvre.

Camels at Insouane

Then back onto the main road for, this time, a more relaxing drive to Essaouira, and calling at the Carrefour hypermarket for some bread – and inevitably a basket full of other things “we needed”! Carrefour is also one of the very few places you can buy alcohol in Morocco and even then it is sold in a separate, closed off section, probably to avoid offending the devout Muslims. Doesn't stop them buying it though! We didn't indulge by the way, having no use for the stuff.........

Derek and June had saved us a space on the guardian parking so we slotted in and had lunch. Afterwards it was down onto the beach to let Jamie have a good run after being tied up so long but unfortunately there were so many distractions for a young puppy, like camels, ponies, kite surfers, quad bikes and kids that we were reluctant to let him off the lead so he had to content himself with running round in big circles. He still doesn't like the sea though.

What's that Dad?

So back to the van for a (melted) ice-cream we got from Carrefour and a chat with another Funster parked up further along. Then tea before a quiet evening trying to get the blog published – we've got an excellent signal but no doubt someone is streaming a video or something and our internet connection is non-existent. But if you're reading this we've been successful sometime, somewhere.

Who you lookin' at?

Monday 15 February

Now that we've got the van and ourselves clean it's time to do some proper shopping. Despite Morocco having some large supermarkets there is very little away from the coast so we've been managing quite well at the little shops and markets. But we now have the opportunity to do what “civilised” people call a proper shop as todays plan is to start heading north and the first large city is Agadir, about an hour and a half drive and the large Marjane hypermarket.

Of course we're now back in civilisation and whilst the roads are good, the amount of traffic is a culture shock having got used to seeing other vehicles about once an hour! However we made Agadir safely and settled down to enjoy an hour or so with a big shopping trolley. The final bill was almost 1500 dirhams; sounds a lot doesn't it but actually equates to just over £100. Our only problem now is getting it all packed away, but we managed then had a late snack lunch.

Derek and June had planned to visit the large souk in Agadir but we've been twice before so were not interested. Unfortunately it is closed on Monday, a fact they discovered when they hailed a taxi, but at least they hadn't actually departed and there was no wasted journey. So we sallied forth along the coast, through our old favourite Taghazoute – Derek and June paused for a wander and a coffee – and headed for Insouane where we stayed on our way south.

Approaching the village we passed by a small school, which seemed to have been built in a river bed, and a large group of 7-8 year olds were walking along the road. Now the problem with young children in Morocco is that they are all very friendly but this group insisted on all but blocking the road and whilst it was perhaps fun for them it made for a very hazardous time from the drivers point of view, one little lad getting very close indeed to the front bumper! Eventually, and reluctantly, we had to blow the horn to clear a path as it was getting decidedly dangerous. And no, sorry, we haven't got any bon-bons, stylo or smartphone!

As we arrived the wind was blowing very strongly off the sea but as the campsite was almost empty we were able to find a couple of pitches with some protection, and also electricity allowing us to eke out our dwindling gas supply.

Sunday 14 February

The rain last thing yesterday didn't amount to anything apart from settling the dust. A bright and breezy start with the only thing on the agenda – bacon & eggs. Mind, this was the last of the bacon so next weekend we'll be suffering from withdrawal symptons.

After breakfast set to with the prime reason for coming here – getting cleaned up. The ordinary washing got done at Tafraoute so we were left with the bedding, but as we no longer had access to a washing machine it got left until we have. But everything got aired and we do have spare bedding so we're not as manky as it might appear..............

But a good airing, sweep out and wipe down everything makes the place seem clean and fresh again. After lunch treated ourselves to nice hot showers, so now we're almost human again!

Despite it being sunny and warm the strong breeze kept us inside for the rest of the day. Tea was a disaster as the steak hadn't defrosted and Terry made a right old mess of sweet and sour chicken – but it tasted okay. Then a good old chin-wag with Derek and June, starting to make plans for the remainder of our time in Morocco. We're “booked” on the 1600 ferry on 24 February.

Saturday 13 February

Up early to the promise of yet another hot one, although there are wisps of cloud hanging around which hadn't burned off by the time we left. Did most of the packing up before breakfast then a round of goodbyes before we followed Derek and June into town for some essentials – there are no shops within easy distance of our intended next stop.

We have come to love Tafraoute. Although there are three proper campsites, the guardian parking is perfectly adequate for our needs and the town is only a ten minute walk where there are plenty of shops, services and a variety of restaurants, some of which we've sampled during our stay. In fact we've probably eaten out far more often than ever before whilst here. The locals are all very friendly (especially when they're trying to sell you something – but that's Morocco!) and often pause to say hello. Of course tourism is very important to the economy and we probably bring a lot of money into the town – we estimate there being in excess of 200 motorhomes on the guardian parking alone. It has obviously replaced Taghazoute in the hearts of motor-homers of all nations and we know that all of the Funsters currently roaming the country have either already called in or are intending to visit. We look forward to returning – Inshallah!

Sunset at Tafraoute - We'll be back!

So onto the road back to Tiznit. Two years ago we came the other way on the R104 and for at least 30 miles it was just gravel, but that has all changed and although it is single track for around half of the distance it is now a good metalled road with just three river crossings left to be repaired. We made good time, catching up with June and Derek when they stopped for lunch, coincidentally at the same spot we stopped two years ago.

Then continue to Tiznit, descending carefully from the mountains as it is far too easy to overheat the brakes on the steep hills and tight bends. Through this modern town and then a short distance south to Camping Tazerzite, where we'd stopped a couple of weeks ago. The guy on reception remembered us and dug out the old registration forms to save time, before we got ourselves parked up. Quite a few more vans here this time and every one French! (Edit - there's a German RV in the far corner!)

A cuppa in the now increasingly hazy sunshine until at teatime, as expected, the increasing clouds produced a fine drizzle that drove us inside. As I write this drivel it doesn't seem to be getting any heavier but we, and the countryside no doubt, would appreciate some proper rain to wash away some of the accumulated dust. Poor old Bertie is absolutely filthy and we hope to maybe give him a wash down while we're here, although we're only planning a couple of days to finish the washing and have proper showers. At least we've got electricity so can save the gas, which is starting to look a tad too low for comfort.

Friday 12 February

Woken at 5.15 to sounds of Jamie being sick. Cleaned up and gave him a drink and he settled down again but it was repeated at 7.30. Although we're careful to watch what he picks up when we're walking him, around the van it's not so easy. However we're more inclined to think it's sun and heat related; he will sit out in the sun as well as spend time under the van where there's usually a cool breeze. He gets plenty of water and doesn't seem to be off his food at all so we're not going to worry at this stage.

Turned out to be another scorcher although the weather forecast has changed quite significantly, promising cloud, a higher risk of rain but more importantly a significant drop in temperature, by 10 deg, which at this altitude could well mean frost at night. So plans adapted to move down to the coast tomorrow where, although we won't escape the cloud and rain, at least it will be warmer.

So as it was so hot we decided to clear the washing basket and after quite a few kettles of boiling water it was all hanging up on the line – and was dry less than an hour later. High temperatures and low humidity make for excellent drying conditions. The wind became quite strong late afternoon, as it has done for several days, but this time it looked a bit serious so with the help of a couple of others we got the screens and awning in, then helped the others do the same. Of course it died down after about 45 mins, but one strong gust can do thousands of pounds of damage so better safe than sorry.

As it was to be our last night at Tafraoute we went out to dinner with Derek and June to Restaurant Marrakesh, a delightful little place with super friendly staff and quite the best meal we've had in Morocco. We all had something different but everyone was very happy with their choice and for around £5 per head for three courses it was good value too.

The Guardian Parking at Tafraoute

Thursday 11 February

Well, that's a change – awoke to mist and low cloud obscuring the mountains and it was a while before the sun burned it off, but eventually it did.

Late morning broke out the trusty trolley again and wandered down to town for some essentials – we like Tafraoute because there's plenty of shops selling almost everything we need (except English tea of course!). Returned to a few chores and a snack lunch.

Maybe it was the walk but Brens headache, which was okay first thing, became worse so back to bed for a few hours with a couple of ibuprofen after which she was much better.

More old friends turned up during the afternoon from the coast where apparently it was raining. We've been watching the forecast for a couple of days and it's starting to look like a deterioration at the weekend, so when we got together with Derek & June later thoughts turned to moving on.

We've heard nothing more from Colin & Tina, despite an email a couple of days ago, although we did see them enjoying some Berber hospitality on Facebook.

Wednesday 10 February

A day of doing nothing. The sun shone, we walked the dog. We were going to do some washing but with no hookup and not wishing to use the van gas it would take ages to boil kettles on the little gas ring, so we didn't.

Then after lunch Bren managed to bang her head quite hard on the door assist handle while attending to Jamie. As a result she's now suffering a mild concussion; no skin broken but she's got a snorter of a headache and is a bit woozy. Keeping an eye on her while she tries to sleep, although the heat isn't helping and now there are a few mozzies about – citronella candles to the fore!.

Tuesday 9 February

The larder is beginning to look bare again so after breakfast break out the trusty shopping trolley and down to town where it's market day.

Typically Moroccan there are many stalls selling what Europeans would call tat but as long as you accepted fashion 4/5 years old some of the clothing is actually reasonable quality. Hardware, “electronics” (about 5 yrs out of date!), mobile phones (the ones you sell on-line when you buy a new one) and stalls galore loaded with the freshest fruit and vegetables. There is even a fried fish stall, which is very popular with the locals but would not do a lot of trade in the likes of Whitby or Blackpool!

After stocking up with fruit and veg, we moved up the main street to the “supermarket”, a Spar-like place where, unlike most shops in Morocco, you take a basket and walk around the shelves. We picked up butter, Coke and a big box of cornflakes but sadly no English tea, a commodity we're running out of after a misunderstanding between us as to how much tea was in the van. They DID have Liptons Yellow Label, but we think that stuff is an offence against the Trade Descriptions Act – we'll drink coffee instead.

Tempted to stop off for an orange juice, we thought we'd better head straight back because we'd left Jamie locked up in the van and the temperature sign was reading 38 deg. He was okay of course and as ever pleased to see us.

Snack lunch and some relaxation then, joined later for “tea-o'-clock” by Derek and June who contributed a bag of coconut macaroons – the bread man brings them when he comes round about 8.30 am with baguettes (if we're first on his run) and “hubcaps”, the round flat Moroccan bread which makes excellent sarnis and also toast if by accident it's a day or two old.

A sausage casserole, made in the tagine so that we could do it on the little gas ring and save the main bottle for the fridge, then later another chin-wag, discussing ideas for moving on.

We're probably going to stay here until the weekend; there are other Funster friends making their way here so it'll be nice to meet up again.

Monday 8 February

The sun comes up over the mountain at around 7.45 am – then Jamie decides it's time to get up. Although one of us gets out to give him a run its usually a lazy start unless we've got something planned – it's nice just to sit out having a first cuppa as the sun climbs and heats up the day.

There had been a sort of idea that we'd go out to lunch with two other couples to a restaurant that was a bit different, but our first priority was to get the water tanks refilled. In the event, and probably because he wasn't here yesterday, it took ages for him to get around to us so we postponed the meal to the evening. In any case it was really now too hot to walk to the town then have a hot meal.

Several folk have been putting up screens off the front of their awnings to provide more shade as the sun is not yet high enough for them to be effective. We've got some wind-blocker screens so thought we'd try them and although they're designed primarily for wind they also make an effective sun-screen so we can sit out with less risk of sunburn. They also channel the breeze through the awning so things are extremely comfortable......

Come early evening, after packing away, we joined Derek & June and Tim & Ali to walk down to the town to this new eating place. A small butchers shop has tied up with a cook/chef so that you buy whatever meat that you fancy and he prepares it for cooking. You then take it “out back” to what can best be described as a “rustic” dining area and give your purchases to the chef who will then cook your meal the way you want it, adding whatever extra it needs/he's got in his “kitchen”. No frills and very clean, the results were very good with plenty of water and bread to go with it. And of course very, very cheap!

Rustic Restaurant

Kefta (meat balls) tagine, set in egg with vegetables plus haricot beans

Then across the road to one of the hotels for coffee before a gentle stroll “home” in the cool of the evening.

Good job we brought a torch because it was pitch black on the site. But the stars again provided a show the likes of which you don't see in Europe.

We're now fully relaxed and beginning to enjoy what we came for.

Sunday 7 February

Tafraoute is in a kind of a bowl, ringed by mountains, so that although it's light the sun doesn't make an appearance until a little after dawn. Up at 7.45 with Jamie I was delighted to catch the moment the sun first suddenly lit up the opposite mountains, as if a switch had been pressed, then just as suddenly spread over the site and town. Brilliant. And then the quite cool morning quickly became very much warmer, to turn into another glorious red hot day (we saw 33 deg in the town later).

As it was Sunday, bacon and eggs for breakfast before a walk down into the town for essential supplies. Being a Muslim country most shops are open on Sundays, although the occasional one closes for an extended lunch break, reopening around 4.00 p.m. until quite late. One very full shopping trolley later we had replenished drinking water, orange juice, vegetables, cereal, jam (very important that one) and eggs so dawdled back to the van to liberate a very restless puppy.

We don't take Jamie into town with us, he's too much of a liability, instead we leave him in the well-ventilated van with plenty of water and his toys. Apart from one occasion, when we accidentally set the alarm and he kept setting it off, he has never been any bother; we usually ask someone to listen out for him. But he does get a bit enthusiastic when we get back!

A light lunch then settle down for some proper relaxation in the sun, Bren making further inroads into the lap quilt, a long-term embroidery project. Even Jamie went to sleep in the sun, not really bothering with the various local ladies walking round the site with their young children, who have no compunction in coming up to you asking for bon-bons. Trouble is, you give in to one and next minute there's fifty of them!

Then as suddenly as it came up, the sun went down, but not before giving another glorious multi-colour display on the mountains. Magical. So pack away all the daily paraphernalia and as it gets dark, a lovely beef casserole made from a superb piece of steak bought in town this morning - £3.80 for half a kilo and so fresh I'm sure we said hello to it on our way into town.................

Saturday 6 February

Having decided to return to Tafraoute we attempted an early start as it was a long drive. Coming here a week ago we did this bit over two days, although the Foum Zguid to Tata leg is on an excellent road and takes no more than 2 hours. Still after 11.00 though.

Once we were ready we couldn't find a guardian to pay and wondered if, as there was now only one van apart from us on the site, they'd given up and gone home. They hadn't taken any registration details so we could have just driven off without paying, but apart from that being criminal it would also have been unfair to the lads who worked so hard to keep the place nice, so we left the fees with a note in their “office”. Hope they got it alright!

With quiet roads, well actually almost deserted, we did Tata in well under two hours, seeing perhaps 5 other vehicles on the way – this is supposed to be a main road! Tata seemed very quiet also so we motored gently through and onto the Igherm road. I waxed lyrical about this road when we came down it the other way and have to say it was equally as stunning going the other way.

One particular thing we noticed was that the almond blossom was almost fully out, a little early this year; wonder how that'll affect the Almond Blossom Festival at Tafraoute, which normally takes place 3^rd week in February.

Beautiful though it was, 199 miles was a lot in one day and we were more than grateful when we rolled into a remarkably busy Tafraoute town. Pushing on through to the guardian parking we found a lot more vans there than a week ago, but located a spot near some old friends, who were delighted to see us, and settled in. We already felt better!

Then to round it all off we walked down to the Chicken Shack, a very reasonable cafe/restaurant for our evening meal, having only stopped briefly for a snack during the day. And remarkably we met another English couple, the husband of which lived just round the corner from Terry in Birmingham when they were both youngsters! Small world.

Must mention; during our walk into and out of the town we passed the open square next door to the college which was very lively with groups of teenage girls being followed around by pairs of teenage boys....... So that's how they do their courting here!

Friday 5 February

With our tensions easing, a quiet day was planned. Up early, we found a dull cloudy and cool spell had overtaken us but as the day progressed the warmth of the sun could be felt trying to break through. Shortly after breakfast the site just emptied – the weather? Only 2 or 3 vans left here!

Getting a little low on supplies we ventured out to do some shopping, after exchanging our little gaz bottle for a full one as it had stopped working. The new one didn't work either – turned out to be a blocked jet but at less than £3 (£23 in UK!) we had the peace of mind of a full bottle.

Shopping completed we called back to last nights restaurant to “claim” the free orange juice the proprietor promised us – and he was as good as his word. Mind you we did tip him quite handsomely last night.

Then back to the van for some peace and quiet (well as far as Jamie would let us) for the rest of the day. 2 more vans turned up during the afternoon but as I write it is very quiet. We have decided to go back to Tafraoute as the next stage but have still not ruled out returning to the UK if it doesn't work out.

Thursday 4 February

We got up this morning and both decided we wanted to go home, that's right, home to the UK despite the weather. We'd simply had enough.

Let me explain. Right from the start we agreed that once we'd got the group across to Asilah, everyone should do their own thing. Okay, we also said that if people wanted to tag along with us we wouldn't chase them. However this has been going on for nearly three weeks and was spoiling our enjoyment. With tensions rising inevitably one very small incident was the straw that broke the camels back (metaphorically speaking of course; no camels were injured!).

So we just packed up and left – don't get me wrong, we don't have any argument with anybody, it just wasn't working for us. A pity really as we had wanted to see the various places we had planned, but they'll still be there in the future.

However, once on the road and a bit settled we agreed that we were “cutting our noses off to spite our faces” and perhaps returning to the UK was a bit extreme. But being part of a group was not going to happen again, and decided to take a few days out on our own doing nothing. So we returned to Foum Zguid, a place we really like, the “pretty” way to take advantage of the scenic route.

This basically meant heading north along the Valle de Draa, following the river which actually had water flowing in it. An excellent road with dramatic views along the way, especially palmeries lining the river with a backdrop of mountains.

At Agdz we turned off to take a lesser road across country, in surprisingly good condition and we were able to keep up a fast pace. That is, until we turned south on the R111 for the last 68km to Foum Zguid. I suppose at one time it had been a road but at anything over 20 mph it was impossible to avoid potholes, broken surfaces and the like. We were following an old Peugot pickup and are sure he was trying to show us the better bits as he made no effort to get away from us and indeed when we stopped for a comfort break he was just around the corner when we resumed.

This went on for 34km – yes we measured it – both of us trying to remember if it was this bad last year (it was, according to the diary) until the road suddenly again became as good as any road we've been on in Morocco!

The campsite at Foum Zguid was still quite busy but we found a nice pitch and settled in, the lads being a little surprised at our return. It being quite late, once sorted out we walked down to the restaurant and treated ourselves.

Wednesday 3 February

During the night one of the wandering dogs came nearby barking continuously – we hear them all the time in the distance but not usually as close. Of course this disturbed Jamie and in turn us; it was at least 15mins before the dog moved away (did someone go out and chase it off?) and we could settle him down again. Ah the joys of dog lovers.

Moving on today so up at a reasonable time to get the packing done. It all has to go in in a certain order and inevitably the first things to load, i.e. the ramps, are the last to be available. But once everything was ready it didn't take long and, having also serviced the van (we mean, of course, empty the waste tanks and refill the water, not grease and change the oil!) we were ready by 10.45. No rush as we're not going far, but it's a good idea to get there early before the French and bag a good spot.

Dues paid, our first call was to refuel. Later calculations horrified us, consumption only 21 mpg even though we had only been gently cruising and everything appeared to be fine. We'll have to watch this but we're beginning to have suspicions about the amount of fuel actually put in because according to the gauge it shouldn't have taken quite that much.

According to the map, the direct road to our destination is only a track but we'd been assured by several people that it was indeed a recently resurfaced and decent road all the way. TomTom refused to provide a route, although it did acknowledge that there was some form of road there – but it would take 9 hours! So to our backup, the free Android app Maps.me, which happily confirmed that the road did indeed exist.

But it was a bit boring. Miles and miles of open hamada (scrub desert) with few bends in the road, broken only three times by bridges awaiting repair and the road diverted round them. We still had mountains around us but we were obviously crossing a flood plain as there were many fording points, usually a dip in the road lined by short concrete posts – must be interesting in the wet season!

Don't see this roadsign often

But it's right!

Occasionally the monotony was broken by little things; a small herd of camels, children appearing from literally nowhere to wave and beg sweeties, (or pens, smartphone, dirhams – getting a bit up-to-date these kids) and what appeared to be some sort of motorcycle (well moped) event. There were also a number of crossroads, well tracks, leading to who knows where, the signs all being in Arabic. And we also noticed the modern two-lane highway ran alongside the old track, which TomTom was obviously following.

As we got nearer to Zagora we saw evidence of quite extensive agriculture; several palmeries with young trees being grown in rows, just like christmas trees, and large areas fenced off and being cultivated under strips of polythene. No idea what they were growing though. Obviously there is water quite close to the surface and we did spot a well close to some habitation.

Approaching Zagora

Zagora, our destination, is a relatively modern and quite large town, set in a river valley but also close to the edge of the desert proper, i.e. sand dunes, which makes it a bit touristy too. It even has it's own airport. Tourist accommodation is plentiful, as are campsites and by personal recommendation we chose Auberge Parc de Jardines which is almost in the centre of town. A full proper site with all facilities within high walls so quite secure too – although we've never been concerned on that score in Morocco. We found an ideal corner where we could park up all four vans together and also provided shade as well as plenty of hot sun. Yes, hot – 33 degrees of it. The only downside, quite common in the sparsely populated areas, is low voltage electricity which the fridge won't accept so we're running on gas, something we've tried to avoid given the lack of suitable refilling facilities.

Site entrance - Impressive

Nice little spot under the palm trees

After lunch we thought we'd go for a mooch, the others already having gone off, as we were needy of several grocery items. However the afternoon sun was really too much for strolling in and when a local shopkeeper told us it was 2km to the souk and anyway it was closed, but would we like to visit his market just 200 metres away, we decided to forego that experience and returned to the campsite. A quick walk round revealed all the essentials as well as a bar (empty) and what looked like a restaurant with a menu – maybe investigate that further.

When the others came back they reported that care is needed when shopping, someone trying to rip them off over a bagful of vegetables. Tourism does have the occasional downside unfortunately.

So back to Bertie and a fractious little puppy. Probably due to the heat, Jamie would not settle and it was well into the evening before we could calm him down. And Westies have a very high-pitched yelping bark which can really get on your nerves................ But it's now approaching 10.00 p.m. and he's finally dozing on the seat. Dogs!

Tuesday 2 February

Yet another bright clear start to the day, cool to begin with but very soon turning into yet another scorcher – for us anyway. Strangely for us, the locals are all going round wrapped up to the eyeballs in coats scarves and hats. Strangely that is, until you remember that this is their winter – they are equally bemused by the Europeans in shorts and T-shirts!

This will be a short entry for today because, well, we didn't do much. Too hot to walk into the village, we spent a short time planning our next move, which will be tomorrow, then relax.

We seem to be travelling quite a lot, but so far we've already been to almost all of the places we've stopped at, so our intention is to move further east still into the “proper” desert and places we've yet to visit. We'll take more time to relax then.

Monday 1 February

February already – it doesn't seem that long since we crossed the Channel in the cold and wet – aahh, memories! And as I write this the news of a powerful storm affecting the north of the UK seems unreal.

First job today after breakfast was to relocate Bertie to a spot next to Colin and with hopefully a better electrical connection. Then join the rest of the group in a mass washing session, once again utilising Tina's washing machine. Soon there were linefuls of laundry drying very quickly in the hot sunshine and gentle breeze. By lunchtime it was all done and ready to be put away.

Then settle down to some proper sun worship. We had thought of walking into the village for lunch but it was really too hot, so much so that we even forwent lunch.

However, later the idea was resurrected and six of us took the five minute stroll into the centre of the village and the restaurant we tried last year. The same welcoming proprietor and we sat down to enjoy Moroccan salad then beef and chicken brochettes with piles of delicious french fries, all accompanied by warm fresh bread, dishes of olives. All washed down with water and then freshly squeezed orange juice. We finally finished off with cafe au lait and all for less than £6 a head.

Whilst enjoying our meal we were “serenaded” by the local Imam calling the faithful to prayer then continuing the “service” over his loudspeakers just across the road.

Then a slow stroll back to the site under a canopy of stars such as you will never see in the UK.

Sunday 31 January

Last nights meal was quite enjoyable, some doing a little better than others. Bren couldn't finish the chicken brochettes so Terry obliged and there was more left over chicken than in the whole tagine he had! The kefta (meat balls) apparently had quite an extended after-effect.........

So today we move on yet again, this time to Foum Zguid, a small village some 100km east along a very good two-lane road, basically following a river valley. We travelled this way last year and were pleased to note that, with one exception of a destroyed bridge, it had been fully repaired. Very little evidence of water although there were several oasis' and some green cultivation. We did, however, cross a ford; the moped rider nearly fell off when he realised we were coming up behind him and let us go first. I wouldn't have splashed him, honest!

The village of Foum Zguid is actually quite small although there has been quite a bit of development since we were here last, most likely in connection with the military barracks we passed on the way in. Impressive entrance arch though.

Camping Kaymer Parc at first sight looks a bit, well, run down but once inside it is an absolute delight with the unmarked pitches spread around the palmerie. Although the facilities are what you would call rustic as well as basic, everything is kept in tip top condition by two or three lads, no more than 20 years old who are on the go all day long. The advance party were just sorting themselves out and we slipped into an adjacent space next to them. At first it looked like we would have to do without electric hookup but some rearranging and use of both our leads solved that problem, although low voltage meant the fridge struggled and periodically switched back to gas, then electric, then gas................

Picture tomorrow

This was our favourite campsite from last year and we're looking forward to renewing our acquaintance.